kutyur’e actively speak to the folkovoy
subject. Why and not to pay a regard to our designers authentic clothes of
inhabitants of Ukrainian Carpathians. The more so, that here it is yet possible
to find such standards. And they not simply beautiful, practical and
interesting. They our, unique and must all of chances get in a fashionable
flow. On the pages of magazine a specialist tells about the clothes of
Carpathians.
From darkness of millenniums
The old ancestors of guzuls were rescued from an inclement weather,
wrapped up in gu’glyu. Peculiar, it
something like a sack from a white or grey smooth woolen cloth, one edge of
which is not sewn together. Depending on a weather, guglya attacked on a head, as though enormous hood, or
rushed about on shoulders. Down it arrived at knees. For comfort the horn of
«sack» is unsewn together cut out rounded. At the front guglya had the відну-єдину fastening (chepragi) or laces-plots. This clothes are a relative of cloak of the Old
Russian princes of, which was called korzno.
To look after real kayf, as during a rain in our cities many people go in nashvidkoruch done polyethylene «guglyakh». One word, guglya until now lives and wins. But real, authentic is large rareness. It is
so old, that saved only here and there in a wedding ceremony and rushes about
already peculiar as sacral clothes.
A bit junior from guglizakarpatskagunya (on Zakarpatti - petek, in lemkiv is a lip, gubanya). It as though
hybrid of coat and bedspread. Smooth woolen cloth for hun wove the special
method: through every three filaments intertwined the long leas of wool
(therefore it was named by «kosmata», «koceva» gunya)...
Manta and chuganya
...It is considered in general, that the oldest outerwear is a hunk of
fabric with a hole for a chairman. Such clothes are named deaf (uncut).
In Latin America such dress - ponche is saved to this day, it periodically is even included in a fashion.
Other variety of pillow-sham was carried in Old Rome: it ponche from the rounded (but not rectangular) form was
called «pe’nula». Penula was the
favourite cloak of the first christian travelling preachers and due to it lived
so long to today as dressed priests - felon (only later for comfort it was at the front a bit intagliated). By next
rationalization were sewn down to the rectangle with a hole the same
rectangular sleeves.
For the time these simple forms became an enormous invention. In to
Ancient Russia uncut ( deaf ) clothes were carried by all: in that time and
shirts, and retinues, and even sheepskin coats on were put through a head. Azh
in XIII age nabridlo our ancestors to
dress all away through a head - and outerwear, making was started by a cut. Whether not from those times
two original old overcoats which «zakonservuvalisya» in the region of Carpathians were saved, as insects in burshtini - manta’ and chuganya...
and kamizelya
If we walk around the preserve of clothes of Carpathians already, sin
not to say highlanders about fur and cloth sleeveless jackets, because they
saved very archaic lines also. Imagine, that you first in history of humanity
planned to do a sleeveless jacket and have not a single experience - only
desire. Obviously, you obgornetes' the piece of fabric (whether sheepskins) from one side and will make an attempt clamp it from other
side - under a mouse, and also on shoulders. Or will kick about length through
shoulders, doing opening for a chairman, and will clamp a pillow-sham on sides.
First method - it old lemkivskakamizelya or boykivska fur bunda. In the second, if there will be a cut at the front, know a gucul'skiy sleeveless jacket. It is ancestors of all of
sleeveless jackets of Carpathians. Sleeveless jackets as a sleeveless jacket
are and very short, and very very long (curkanka, muntyan), once there were
only lines, later - widespread wedges...
...It is desirable here to remember and about a shawl. Clearly, that
rectangular pays - it in general simpler all, that it is possible it was to
invent from clothes, and shawl and to this day fashionable and has hundreds of
methods of tying up. But why does remember a shawl next to a sheepskin coat?
Because it also is a warm outerwear! Here to take even lemkivsku (already factory) «barankovu» shawl which carried out the role of jacket with a
hood. This was the enormous square of very thick woolen from torokami. A woman threw such shawl on a head, crossed ends on
a breast and strung them behind by a knot on thallium. Barankova a shawl (or is
plakhta) fully shrouded a
chairman and state waist-deep, therefore other outerwear on under it was not
put.
magic
Other elements of clothes of highlanders of -sorochki, gucul'skizapaski, sandals (in lemkiv - kerpci, at firing-pins are regular visitors) made of bark, three-cornered
woolen onuchi (kapci), enormous trousers «gatchs» - also guests from dalekogo-dalekogo of the pas. From those times,
when our ancestors presented the whole surrounding world densely populated good
and wicked perfumes. Dressed then was a magic shell, which protected a body and
smother man in incomprehensible, often frightful, and even the hostile world.
Remember, that gogolivskiy Thomas Brut does,
that to be protected from impure force? Certainly, outlines itself a circle.
Our ancestors also outlined itself such magic border. Practically all of
clothes «on a perimeter» has the embroidered protective border: on a neck cut,
armholes, cuffs, hem, cuts - that something impure did not get to no crack. It
is boldly possible to say, that all of finishing once carried out a magic role
foremost - and what he was more, that a man felt more protected. There was not
a single cross or hook, embroidered «simply so», for beauty.
Consequently, a traditional folk load of Carpathians is a sign not only
that saved the most ancient cutting out, method of making, but also «magic»
finishing which was formed long before adopting christianity. When look on all
these ancient odyaganki, seems, as though
peep in a gliboku-gliboku well in which
and water not evidently, a splash is only heard somewhere. And an echo goes...
