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Головна » 2010 » Лютий » 9 » Fresco on the Romanian Bukovina
Fresco on the Romanian Bukovina

Fresco on the Romanian Bukovina

The capital of Moldova - Kishinev. The capital of Bukovina - Chernivtsi. A capital and Moldova and Bukovina - Romanian city of Suceava. Though it's the capital of Moldovan principality was still in the years 1388-1565. Firstly, here - the center of Ukrainian life in South Bukovina. Secondly, although the high status of Suceava has lost more than four years ago, traces stolychnosti its image can be recognized today. Incidentally, it is from the Ukrainian border - 60 kilometers. She along with her neighbor to settlements valued quite separate trip.

Weekend in Suceava

Shuttle bus from the Chernivtsi to Suceava departs at 7 o'clock 10 minutes (back 12.00). A few dozen kilometers to the border pass Bukovynian foothills of the Carpathians and favorable weather will bring some nice landscapes. Next - the border crossing near the village Terebleche, which differs little from other Ukrainian conversion. Is it from a long border and enchanted considering your visa and perepytuyut: "Tourism? In Romania? "See the man with him a backpack in busyku, which usually go hither and thither passengers with dual citizenship and large checkered bag, our customs - curiosity. Drivers busiv also consider a travel freak. Suceava not go into the market? ..

... The center of Suceava - typical post-Soviet atmosphere: Concrete p'yatypoverhivky, many second-and Gende chaos kiosks. Kantor is also the most attractive rate is near the market. And the only medieval church somewhat soften Déjà Vu with some eastern county.

To arrange a vacation in Suceava, will spend the night somewhere. You live in a networked three-star Hotel Continental in downtown, near the old St. Nicholas Church. It is quiet and clean, and well trained staff speaks English. The last factor is especially important if your knowledge of Romanian limited expression «casa mare» ( «big room" - as is traditionally called the most beautiful office building in Romania and there are many restaurants with this name) and «larevedere» ( «Goodbye") and the numeral to ten. However, for comfort and service have to pay so much in hostels for the money you can live at least four days.

Den forger

Leaving him a backpack in the room, we go to the main tourist town charms - Queen's Castle (Cetatea de Scaun) Stephen the Great and his successors with a somewhat dubious reputation. Located stronghold on a hill (a height of 384 feet) above Suceava, near the old cemetery and the Museum Bukovynian village. Whether its proximity to the Ukrainian border deal making, and whether Romanians believe that the numerous walks benefit and old and small and public transport at Castle hill not distaneshsya. In warm weather can shorten the path, going past the park equestrian statue Stefan cel Mare (1977), but in winter the steep stairs pidkoryatsya only experienced climbers. Under extreme weather conditions have chalapaty two miles from the monastery of John the New Suceava neighborhood, past the town has restaurants, local cemetery and Skansen. Not terrible - the fortress still good! Cashier receives two lei for each adult visitor to the castle - and would also deprive five leyiv for photography, and for some reason does not.
Castle, from which all Suceava - both hands, he appeared in 1388, according to owner Peter Moldova and Moldavia (1375-1391). Royal castle called because Suceava was the capital of the Moldovan Principality. Later on in his building took itself Stefan the Great (Stefan cel Mare, 1457-1504) ...

History skydalasya would hold the history of hundreds of similar fortifications, had no long-term "phenomenon Suceava. It all began in 1660, those of the Commonwealth when the market was filled with false "silver" coins. Actually Calls circlet were copper, they vkryvav only thin layer of silver. Coins nakarbuvaly so that they, as they say, the chickens do not klyuvaly. And where they were taken - no one knew. It was the version that is so fool to Liflyandiyi1: fraud occurred among the "money" from Riga and Liflyandiyi, allegedly minted on behalf of the Swedish king Gustavus Adolphus (1611-1632), Queen Christina (1632-1654), Karl X Gustav (1654-1660 ) and Charles XI (1660-1697). Only at the beginning of XVIII century, began to appear guesses that the forger kvartyruvaly somewhere in Moldova. We had a whole century to finally find the exact address of the craftsmen. Austrian archaeologist Karl Romstorfer that conducted excavations in the royal fortress of Suceava, vidnayshov here more than 3 000 fake Swedish and Polish coins, 500 bilateral stamps for their coinage, copper and wood waste Mint production ...

Wall live saints

The next Suceava «the must» for tourists is John the New Monastery (Suceava), located at the foot of Castle Hill. Although the monastery valid, unique photographs of murals you will not ban anyone and claims of inappropriate clothing for the monastery did not nominate. Monastery was built during the reign of the son of Stephen the Great, Voivod Bogdan III in the year 1514. Above the entrance is preserved table in Cyrillic, which announced the founding of the monastery.

In the XVII century it was the residence of Metropolitan of Moldova, which is why street on which the monastery is called the metropolitan. In George's church in a silver sarcophagus preserved relics very popular St. John the New (he died in 1332). Fresco Well, that covered every centimeter of the walls, talk about the holy life, emphasizing the torture which he suffered. Pictures dating from 1534-m year. It is a pity that ekster'yerni painting the house survived only in part: snow and rain to make his own.

The main cathedral of the monastery - trykonhovyy typical of Bukovina and the skirts of those times. Next to the monastery buildings, cells, the bell tower, two churches. One of them is also decorated with frescoes, but the nineteenth century ...

"Sistine Chapel of the East" and other wonders
The next day starts with 40 kilometers to the west, in the resort town of Gura Humorului Prikarpatskoe. Next to him are several monasteries.

The most famous - Voronets - 5 miles southwest of Gura Humorului. Round three a day goes shuttle bus (7.00, 12.30, 14.45), but in summer, probably better to walk on foot.
Travel monastery is open daily from 8.00 to 20.00. Price: lei per entry, 10 leyiv for digital photography, 6 - to film apparatus. And since cash is not obihrivalasya and outside "kusav" frost, payment was lawful to anyone.

"Sistine Chapel of the East" - so called this monastery in most guidebooks with paintings cover the walls of the monastery not only inside but also outside. Frescoes are made on the unusual background of blue. Secrets of the dye have not rozhadano: little roztertoyu lapis-lazuli, and that is - is unknown. There's even a term - "voronetska Xin. The same unique tone, as titsianivskyy red "and" veronezivskyy green. All three - unique.
According to old Romanian chronicle written by Mr. Crister Nekulche (Ion Neculce, 1672-1745), the monastery was founded in the crater Stephen the Great in the year 1488 "by the prayers of St. Daniel recluse" the wooden cells that St. ...

Walls were painted in the years 1534-1535, in the reign Petru Rares and Metropolitan Grigorii Roshko ...

Although the walls are painted from ceiling to floor, the most impressive is the fresco "doom" in the western part. Near the feet of Christ burning red flames of hell, trying to escape from which kings and the Pope. On both sides, but the images of prophets, scenes from Adam and Eve, depicted demons that divide the property that remained after the sinners. Before the gates of paradise and turn squash - artists, obviously, were not devoid of humor ...

Humor jokes without

Next destination - Humor Monastery (and Humor). Back to the center of Gura Humorului and is moving north. All five kilometers to the monastery, it seems, occupied by hotels and motels. It seems unless you can see on the marine resort. If the crater public transport runs, though rarely, it can only get here on foot or by taxi. The road runs past the old Jewish kirkut and the ruins of the church, built by the owner of Alexander the Good. As voronetska this current abode, entry and paid survey ...

In 1535, the walls outside and inside painted with Tom Suceava. He author of the paintings in the monastery Moldovytsya. In Humor, on the wall even survived a self-portrait of the artist: he depicted himself in the Moldovan dress in the form of rider that protects Constantinople (and thus Christianity) from the attacker-Turk ...

... Very little time is left: hurry past in Suceava fantastic snow-Carpathian forest. Deciding not to risk a bus, back as well as come: private busykom, who has been waiting near the market. We expect queues at the border: a few days ago, the Romanians have the right to visa-free entry to Ukraine. But after an hour of tail goes into almost native Chernivtsi baggage. Among the baggage, but the Romanian beer bottles (in the collection, gentlemen, in the collection) - explicit desire to return to Romania again.

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