The most popular walking route of the Ukrainian Carpathians is Montenegrin ridge. And if you describe it, the prefix "most" does not have to use a word. Even faktazhi, not to mention the emotional coloring. Of Montenegro - the highest peak in Ukraine, nayvysokohirnishi lakes, buildings ... This instantaneous change of weather: from scorching sun to sleet. And yet - almost 40 miles of mountain trails, vast meadows, steep slopes and lush landscapes. And when the summer tourists have a chance to burn in the sun unprotected, even small scraps of leather clothing, and just freeze in winter, the Montenegrin "Indian summer" for travelers can be a revelation.
Dzembronya - canyon
Start the Montenegrin ridge can travel from different towns. For reasons more or less peaceful return home, the creative team decided to start a magazine Carpathian village Dzembronya, route and finish at railway stations in Lazeshchyna (Transcarpathia). Train still matter much more reliable than the bus in mountainous rayonah1.
Itinerary prepared for. Do not recommend to go without an experienced guide. Choosing the time for a trip, please pay special attention to the forecasts. Usually in Montenegro's tourist season runs from mid-May to mid-October. March to the winter range is very difficult, risky and dangerous to life.
Summary: Village Dzembronya (Berestechko) - mountain canyon (1894 feet) - G. Black Mountain, Montenegrin Pip Ivan (2028) - G. Dzembronya (1877) - G. Menchul (1998) - G. Brebeneskul (2036) - Lake Brebeneskul (1801) - G. Hutyn-Tomnatyk (2016) - G. Rib (2001) - G. spokes (1863) - Lake Nesamovyte - Turkul G. (1933) - G. Dantsizh (1848) - G. Pozhyzhevska (1822 ) - Mount Breskul (1911) - Vysokogirnyi hospital Institute of Ecology of the Carpathians NAS (1429) - Hostels Zaroslyak - Poloniny Koznyeska - Kozmeschyk tract - Lazeshchyna village.
Approximate length - 55 km.
Duration - three days.
Emergency and rescue items:
Verkhovyna, commander Vasily Kobilyuk (03432) 2-19-71, 2-19-41;
Vorohtyanskyy, Commander Michael Savchuk (03434) 4-11-49, 4-13-97.
Tip: When traveling on a route, prepare the route and sign a letter to the rescue point.
Since Soviet times is still a village marked on maps as Berestechko, but that name no one uses. And historically important - Dzembronya.
To place got Editorial car. Turn to the side of the road Dzembronya Ivano-Frankivsk Verkhovyna located in the village near Uelzen food store and a large wooden pointer. This paved road ends and begins ... Let's silence we shall remove his hat before daring driver and hardy passengers sometimes have to overcome this way. Our driver courageously remained silent, although this time the road has reduced the life of the car at least several years.
Near the village bus stop and let the car went up the mountain canyon. The route marked directly from the village, but somehow through a private courtyard. Local Gazda was in a good mood and told to pay for passage. After questions (who, what, what specifically, how to issue?) Felt that not easy to make out, and wished a happy journey. And if not allowed to pass, would look for another way - private property, so be it.
In about half an hour stayi2 got to the meadow. Three men from Kosovo are in agreement with the village community: from May to mid-September dzembronskyh fed cows, make cheese, cheese, vurda. So, a short rest near stayi, talking about Carpathian mountains and the eponymous magazine. Later, Lise "The Brow" to the mountain canyon. This - the shortest rise to the top, but quite difficult, especially for the first day hike. Later legs get used to work shoulder - to heavy backpack, light and clean air are inspired to work on a full and initially quite difficult.
From a scientific point of view, nayvitryanishym place in the Carpathians is Poloniny Pozhyzhevska. But it's probably because it is on Pozhyzhevskiy meteorological station, which conducts surveillance. Are measurements made on Smotrich? That's where the wind! Local gusts could compete with the force of any other place in the Carpathians. And what's interesting: earnings up to a certain point in an absolutely no wind (about the first great stone), going over some invisible boundary, and - furious wind tourist said loudly: "Hello!" Feeling, as if out of the house and immediately came under small tornado. Heard that Smotrich can just go back to the wind and not fall. We tried this attraction - or no time or inspiration ...
Pip Ivan. Observatory
After earning a height of Smotrich, take riding to the fork: the left - Pip Ivan Montenegrin, right - all the Montenegrin mountains. Just say that this time in the reports will not be detailed descriptions of each turn. To route to Montenegro is not required. On the spine is well vtoptani paths and Polish-Czech border columns. (Rescuers say that once State entered an order directly on the ridge poles buried in the ground as "remnants of bourgeois culture." So, some deliberately buried, while others quietly behind continued. For the best reference and search enough). In good weather, with map and compass, lost to the Montenegrin spine hard - all visible to tens of kilometers. And here in bad weather you can just crash on steep slopes. For Western (Transcarpathian) side of the spine is childbirth, and Eastern (Carpathian) - urvystym.
From fork (border column number 18) to the observatory on Black Mountain (Popi Ivan) - a half hour walk. The last kilometer walked in dense fog. Visibility was such that magazine correspondent almost "entered" forehead into the wall. Imagine: mountains, wind, fog, path, and only in the last seconds (enough to reach out, to touch) notice monumental stone walls.
Journal Karpaty has published a very detailed material about the past, present and prospects for Popi Observatory John ("Who Will Save the White Elephant», № 3 (5) 2005, www.karpaty.net.ua/articles_05/slon.php), so We will not talk about it again. Suffice it to say that it was built on Polish hutsuly money (was opened in 1938), it led the Poles, and "put the cross" on the observatory Soviet authorities. The same hutsuly perfected the actual loss of buildings, roztyahnuvshy all that you can pick.
Since the first years of independence has already been some restoration projects nevtilenyh Observatory. In summer, the tourism administration of Ivano-Frankivsk Regional State Administration reported on the possibility of developing another program. Maybe finally something in this direction and zrushytsya, but currently hard to believe. However, although the observatory at Popi not only slowly falls apart. It is a huge high trash and toilet. We thank colleagues for tourists ... (More is better refrain. To wonder about the waste - see editorial on page six).
So we found a place to put the tent down in landfills and not used. One hour dobihly back to the bifurcation and down the east ridge traversnoyu path to some more ruins. They are clearly visible from above. Good place for parking - there is water, protection from wind. By the way, if you go to Montenegro, even in summer take a gasoline or a gas burner for wood there - more than deficit. Montenegrin ridge located in the National Park - cut wood and smoke fire is prohibited.
Near the parking lot of our group stopped for the night Czechs. They took with them vodka and compass, map and forgotten at home. Luga searched the village, which from here - a day of normal gait. How could have helped distinguished guests: shown on the map, said to keep the area to the west. From vodka abandoned. We hope that they finally came to the meadows and normally returned home. So, among foreigners occur adventurers.
Morning was good - promised sun. On the route came at nine. Quickly climbed the ridge, on the same fork turned right and started to travel across top. Wind, peaks, landscapes, sometimes - inspiring fog that zalitav of Transcarpathian of flat side perevalyuvav spine and sailed over the mountains, meadows.
When the mountain came across Dzembronya touring tent. These were the people of - a guy with a girl on bicycles. Asked whether they reach the lake the day before himself. As they were going to go on a ridge? And even if the weather vanished? Again, hope that they successfully doshtovhaly their Rover to the lake and is already having experience will not dissuade friends like adrenaline-boost exercise.
Although each peak in Montenegro is traversna path. So if you want you can not descend from the mountain-climb up the mountain, just bypass without losing altitude. To as much. Since Brebeneskul mountains, standing on the tops of the Transcarpathian tourist road signs with the name of the mountain and mileage to the nearest peaks. Put them recently, but "good people" there have already write their names and other hlupstva, and even distort pointers where like. This, to say a silly joke can be fatal for someone. For example, in dense fog.
Immediately warn: pillar marked "Rib Hill" is not at the very top, and much more on a ridge, to turn to mountain spokes (border column number 30). And the mouse was designed entirely in the other direction. Before you "run down" to the spokes (already a very nice place, though not quite on the way), we put on the table, but we guarantee that it is not perestavlyat again, no. It applies to everyone with pointers. Probably safer guided by good old Polish-Czech border. (By the way, now - border Transcarpathian and Ivano-Frankivsk. No wonder each of the areas in advertising and promotional materials attributed Montenegro itself).
But first was Brebeneskul lake (in a deep cavity under the mountain Hutyn Tomnatyk), which struck some philosophical sense of calm. Unfortunately, it is almost an ideal place for tourist parking is now littered with no less from the observatory and the same himself. And a dozen years ago there was a purely ...
And enough of sad. Second day hike. Feet do not hurt - it is like a song sung. Weather good. Visibility, as pilots say, a million million. Landscapes charms. It seems that the whole world - where no Come back - just mountains. No major cities, road congestion, false politicians and domestic problems. Where the sea, where and giving? But we - and the mountains.
At six pm Breskul were on top. Petros Hoverl and this time decided to leave alone. At Petros and walked so many times, wrote and write about it. Hoverla - a separate issue, an interesting and painful time.
Pozhyzhevska down the mountain. There's already 18 years lives with the family Yuri Holobin - known among tourists personality, a great connoisseur of the Carpathian mountains, fishing and unchanging persistent host biostatsionaru Institute of Ecology of Carpathians. He poprosylysya overnight. The evening passed in stories related to mountains. Ever since this will be material to the magazine. About Homul bunker under the hill where the gunner's skeleton found in the Hungarian coat. On the plane, which crashed during the war still lies somewhere in the mountains (so we still have to find it). On modern local "Robin" who robbed tourists at Montenegrin spine and which two years were catching "the alive" and caught. (But probably not all, cases of robbery because the tourists are still found on the internet forums). About the famous tourist in narrow circles holobinsku Shepherd with popular now overseas nickname Bucks, together with a host of people driving by mountains and do not allow tourists to get lost. (Try to go down the path, when a huge dog pulls you on clothing and loud barking). On Old Soldier's Cemetery, where we gathered in the morning to get ...
By nayvysokohirnishym city in Ukraine Ms. Luba Holobina care. The order - would envy the British. Bucks photograph smart dog we could not - he ran from an early owner with his son Sasha Holobinym for mushrooms. According to Mr. George in the mountains to live better than in any city. Calmer pravdyvishe. If you need to buy something, you can go to Vorohty or Ivano-Frankivsk. But to live there - there is no desire. And amenities is not very concerned, even sometimes interfere. "That put the tower near Zaroslyak mobile communications - have same base path to tread. And so winter athletes from there to run me up the mountain because there is a connection, and there - no. Will pass their twenty people here have a normal way "- Yuri Holobin laughs.
On the morning of biostatsionaru down to the little tourist Zaroslyak and passed along the Goverlu. Near the column number 3 Hoverlyanske off the right path and headed toward the mountains Big Koznyeska. Still the old boundary. Half an hour move next to a sign marked 3 / 8 and again left a trail through the forest poprostuvaly left. 200 meters through the forest cemetery located Austrian soldiers who died here August 30, 1916 year. While the long fierce fighting between the forces of two empires - Russia and Austria-Hungary. (Oh, almost forgot: the route to Montenegro can see remains of trenches and dugouts during WWI. Almost everywhere).
Once there was a lawn, and cemetery zaris forest. Probably, and so well preserved that it is not so easy to find. On the stone ceiling, you can read the names of the dead: Gustav Muller, Leo Thomassen, Edward Brever, Fritz Klose, Edward Kozmytskyy ... Total of fifty soldiers. They were born in different years, were mostly young, and died at once. It was a war ...
From cemetery going back. Path despite border posts, then through the stream bed several area northwest Koznyeska proceed up the mountain. There are few houses - also staya, as in Smotrych, but much larger. With fallen trees on the slope seen here once a powerful avalanche came down. From there - the way down to the ravine Kozmeschyk. As always, a little late for a train (16.30 from Lazeshchyna), so I had speed. From alpine meadows to the station - with 20 kilometers of road. On the train had. When they stoned to Scapulars wagon, Carpathian mountains covered real rain ...
1 Dzembronya can be reached by bus from the county: Verkhovyna-Shybene, 14.00 (turn three miles on foot) and Verkhovyna-Dzembronya, 17.20. Tickets cost about five USD. Two hours of this trip may be the most difficult area for tourist three-day trip ...
2 Staya - Poloninska hut where the herdsmen live in the summer.