1000 kilometers of Western Ukraine
Electric Lions-Mukachevo removed us outside the city at seven in the morning. Arrange discounts for two vagrant from the bike that "go far" not made major difficulties. Passing Slavske and Lavochne, dovezla us to the train station Beskid. Here, the Carpathians were perceived to look and touch.
Pass Beskid vybyralysya foot. The path went left of the station - the last in the Lviv region, which begins nekorotkyy tunnel in Transcarpathia. To cut down on the old lanes of the Polish-Czech border doshtovhaly Rover path for a quarter of an hour more - down. Therefore, sliding, test the brakes. In the village of Upper heel literally bend on a slope.
Later it was Poloniny-range Borzhava. Shutters, nubile, attractive. Gordon Izky viewed its southeastern part, the top Gimba, Magura-Zhyde, hornbeam and others. Borzhava - popular among tourists. They
often belfry each other stories about building now destroyed military
radar on the highest peak Ridge - Stop (1681 meters). And in this array is probably the most famous waterfall in the Carpathians spikes. Every year on Midsummer people come here with his own extraordinary life philosophy and give a "dyhu - who both prefer. Each to achieve nirvana is the recipe ...
Having overcome lingering pass between the county and village Mezhgore Synevyr, moving towards the village Kolochava. Glory
he brought "the boys forest, local robinhudy, which in turn is
skoryalysya then one, then another power during historical peripeteia
first half of XX century. The
most prominent among them were Shugay Nicholas and his brother George,
whom he wrote Cech John Albert of Poland, and the script is still in
the interwar years removed tape "Marichka-nevirnytsya. Czech tourists are now frequently naviduyutsya in this province.
Some Czech and Romanian
"Ahoy, ned bom-bom?" - This first incomprehensible phrase we heard repeatedly on the road. In this way, local kids, hello almost-Czech, asked the candy. Worthwhile to grab a handful, because it is difficult to deny round ochenyatam that provozhajut tourist villages. Here above you vysitymut nice arrays Nehrovets, Strymba. Kolochava with his interesting past - a convenient area for walking trails. We went pass Pryslop.
Way down - Carpathian Madness Classic. Road and river - two in one. Site-kilometrivka Kiev military mapping plant at the site lied relentlessly. Nahleptalys extreme. Vstryahaly in swamp mylysya and rode on.
In the village of Kalin - another pass. You often hear Romanian. Cigarettes "landlord's" uncle asked local class is not as often as it was a royal bomamy. However, questions used to dublyuvalysya two languages. One of the neat local men boasted that honestly earns on renovation in the first villages in Romania. In his village to work - 15 km. Well, almost like a Sykhiv to the center for residents of Lviv.
Way past Tysa Rahova to rise, with many descents, seemed not gaining height. And an additional attraction for tourists - look at another country. Was close to Romania, being within hand? For workers - perhaps. But
our tourists still know little about the Romanian Rodnyansky ridge near
the town of Borşa tamoshnih Petrosulom (2303 meters) and Ineu (2272
meters), located at some 50 kilometers from the Ukrainian business. Too close, to not ask for neighbors. And
so we echo the words of the song "Picardy Third": "I stood on the shore
of the great river ... not overcome my deep water ...».
Hoverla remains significantly more visits (all of the known causes) compared with neighboring Petros. Meanwhile, the route number 15 in this dvohtysyachnyk promarkovanyy well. He lies on Kvasov. Bicycles left in the village. Weather was excellent, and the rise of the western slope of Mount naypolohishomu relatively simple. No matter - bihlosya!
Mount - peace and quiet. Group of tourists who came with us rapidly toward podalasya Goverly. We are again left with themselves. Medytuvaly. Photographed. Dreaming. Zhuvaly pressed between Carimate and flooded the sun "chokolyadu, pryberezhenu it to the top. Such a tradition.
Then - towards Goverly. The rapid descent, and now traverses the spine back into Kvasy. On the road occurred hut-ekopunkt where prymistylysya two Odessa students. In the building heat oven warms, brewed tea. The current owners tell that this hut is not the first time. Kayfuyut, contemplating fellow top. Climb from the temporary housing is not in a hurry. Samodostatno are chosen on the territory of the wonderful panorama around. Navid - pen and notebook, which entered lines of something, I suspect, very lyrical.
"Red Rue" dovezla us Kvasov to Vorohty. They sat down again on the Rover and whirl away Kryvopilskoho pass. Elevation was not easy. A few kilometers had to push bikes up. Roll down - employment is much nicer. Indicators of kilometers on the route changed to car speed, wind osvizhav all one hundred.
Déjà vu came in the evening the same day. That is - following in the direction of Kosovo Bukovetsky pass. Such a protracted recovery, the same pleasant wind lift. And the broken road. "In Toronto bear isolated trees, barns, hay" - both local residents tell about the recent flooding in the area.
What was between the two passages? Do not let yourself ride the wind down past Uelzen, Verhovine and Krivorovnyu. Brakes, pryhlyadaytesya, breathe in the atmosphere. Why come here once Sergei Paradjanov, and why it felt comfortable here Mikolaichuk John? Paradise on earth, but it is rather a level of emotion, rather than a sober assessment. Kryvorivnya in the historical museum plan is not limited to the famous film "Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors." It is often visited Ivan Franko, many other classics of our literature. His museum is located at the road worthy of attention every tourist. Mason back in this land of creative summer vacation for rest, recreation and inspiration.
After Gutsulschiny were still Bukovina and skirts. For excitement, ohlyadyn and adventure. And moving to Chernivtsi was a very gray. Become a tent on the bed near the town failed. Green areas on the map to the west of Chernivtsi not meant wood, water, wood, calm and quiet. The proximity of villages, rather crowded road, lack of clean water, scrub the right bank of the Prut. We decided to go ahead and reached the regional center in the evening. With us came the words of a lullaby "where we sleep?". This question is decided with the help of the railway.
Diesel train stretched towards Moldova. Last night flight from Chernivtsi. In the village of delicious hominy name. Hence, closer to Khotina. This argument was number two. The argument number one was hypothetical bed. A wooden bench in the car were quite comfortable. Night in the class "almost-reserved seat became extremely drowsy. Local ЧМЭЗ 2343 pulled us all ways end station. Rozformovuvav, pereformovuvav, doformovuvav. We dreamed outland, cheap wine and nice Moldavanka ...
"One of the oldest and major defense items Transnistria" - is a guide. Many stories, many legends and a lot of guides to play tourist. In the reconstruction of the fortress. On the wall does not drop all that and had to use diplomacy and persuasive words like "press". Local Stjopa uncle became our guide and we - avid listeners and connoisseurs.
Moved the bridge over the Dniester, got on the interest. On the route remained only one point of the program, but it was true apogee of the trip. Kamenets. Another stronghold of the old city on the island, whose river canyons vytvoryla Smotrich. Together
with the Old Fortress all directories are advised to visit the Polish
and Armenian markets Trynitarskyy visit the cathedral and churches, a
lot of other objects.
On the bridge "deer, running can be tempted to free flight to the river with the cable attached to the feet. Bungee jumping - satisfaction not cheap (200 USD - Ed.), But interested, as organizers say jump, always are. Not missing and spectators.
We missed the day that has passed. For
the unhurried "dokintsyapohlynannya" city experience which can not be
placed in one or two paragraphs, decided to return even tomorrow, by
bus, without Rover. And now - in Dunaivtsi for 34 miles from Kamenetz, where we waited for the family and needed a rest after the ordeal.
On the back trying to count every kilometer. Road nekorotka, dobyrannya tight schedule, and time - only pivdoby. Light ekstrimchyk, it turned out, can be found on the level ground. Station Vovkivtsi Southwestern railroad is ten miles west of the station in Brussels. For site map - hruntivky piece, and then asphalt trail on Volochisk. Hruntivky was 500 meters, but that was enough. Black earth after rain - tough and deep. On the rotary motion of wheels was not the question. Raleigh minyalysya, and we, the people and horses stood for "horses".
End - road, train, feeling returned. In the hometown dropped. "In Lviv lyeye again" - a popular local saying. "Home way closer" - another saying. But whether it was a sense of absolute return? And where we end up heading? Again to the urban hustle and bustle? Well, that although the rain did not wash the wheels and shoes all have pidsohlyy black soil ...