Gorgan - mountains that attract attention with its beauty. They are located in Skybkova or external Carpathians (Ivano-Frankivsk, Transcarpathian region). In total there are nearly parallel ridges 6.5 (width to 40 km in length, about 75 miles) cut by deep valleys, numerous rivers. Southern boundary runs along Main Gorgan Dividing Ridge (separating rivers Dniester and the Danube basin). In the southwest of Gorgan neighbor is the highest ridge of the Ukrainian Carpathians - Montenegro.
Gorgan in the Carpathian Mountains is called invasion of stones
The northern slopes are steep Horhanskyi peaks and steep. The south is generally flat. Therefore tourist tracks for approach to the spine laid it on the south side.
Gorgan is the calling card of numerous stone placers (local name "Gorgan"), composed of sandstone. Sometimes there are valid "stone river" that is often covered with almost impenetrable thickets of pine (local name "zherep). Therefore rises to the top Horhanskyi (bruises, hamsters, Syvulya, Ihrovets, falls, etc.) does not regarded as an easy ride. Yaremcha Yaremcha
But our story is devoted to a small three-day hike on Mount hamsters (1542.1 m) spine small Gorgan, schdiysnenyy end of May 2007.
City, town and city again. Continuous traffic jams, accidents and "stone jungle" bedroom community. Living by the clock and on schedule.
And somewhere, in some few hours away from Kyiv, all of these "amenities" no civilization. There on the horizon, under the same cloud, the river of life flows calmly and reasonably, for centuries laid track.
Where you can find, even for a few days, the desired peace and talk in person with nature? One of the best places for recreation of the city are the Carpathian Mountains.
Undoubtedly, more Carpathians begin on the train "Kyiv - Ivano-Frankivsk. Activities in the car and immediately hear the correct "western dialect. Of course, reserved seat pass all interfere with a backpack with a tent that will not fit. And reasonable people wondered how such a "junk" can "jump" in the mountains?
Church in Yaremche
Church in Yaremche
Outside flying ruins Starosil's'kyi (S. Old Village) Castle and pipes Burshtyns'ka TES. You feel inflow of forces, as pid'yizhdzhaye train to Ivano-Frankivsk, and therefore boring trip coming to an end.
The regional center, quiet and provincial, greets us with a festive mood: Trinity. Virtually all around (including taxi and train) are decorated with green branches. Beautiful and unusual! Zhenetskyy Falls Zhenetskyy Falls
Near the bus a woman warns that the mountain will not come out better - there is the likelihood of avalanches. Avalanche at the end of May? Sounds exotic Kiev after 30 degree heat.
On the road begin to find out: "Where would we get better?" In other words, from which place the road Ivano-Frankivsk - Rachel easier to attack the hamsters. Map of practically nothing says neither passengers nor the driver. Phrases in the style of "stop somewhere at the end of the village Mykulychyn" wind at all in all deadlock. Indeed, settlements in the Carpathian Mountains stretched for miles along river valleys, and often blend in seamlessly with each other.
A marked recovery and relief made replica dohadlyvoho guest to middle age: "go around giving Yushchenko." Indeed, as it turned out, do we need to stop was just in those countries.
We proceed from the vehicle and get the fairy world. The air filled with the smell of ozone and needles. Under the hanging bridge which make a powerful stream of water of the river Prut.
Over the bridge we have "met" a formidable pillar inscription: "The object of natural reserve fund - Carpathian National Nature Park. Quickly go through the checkpoint. Health is not visible.
Good torovanoyu way with minimal elevations moving to the main local attractions - Zhenetskoho waterfall. On the track here whizzing cars (people going on holiday to celebrate nature). In the presence of the President of the estate indicate neat iron bridge - a luxury, obviously not available for local budgets. And now, twist through the lodge contains two, barriers and armed with rifles guard. Mountain shiner Mountain shiner
In my opinion, the 'object' expensive (in better) differs from the Concha Zaspivskyh "fellow" Absence of any artificial obstacles. Natural riverbank fence is not hiding from the eyes of modest wooden set (frame).
One after another brake machine. How - this attraction! Camera shutters click ...
We continue our journey to a small miracle created by nature - waterfall. Approaches to it perepynyayut small landslides. Clinging to bushes and small trees, often balancing on one foot, come to the gorge. Which make falling water. Around almost steep slopes. Mountains zaslonyayut sun reigns twilights would transform. Just mountains and water, whereby not stop.
Trying get closer to the brook that falls. Water burn, a couple of minutes starts legs convulse. Become a great boost during the charge and get Carpathian Energy lacks moral force.
Soon begins "regular" Carpathian rain. Falls seek shelter in the alcove that is designed for two seats. Which make the sound echo echoed him and blasts convoy, which hastens the "rest" home.
Specific local weather familiar to us in past campaigns. So climb the mountain starting in the traditional cloak of rain and rubber boots. Dirt and sediments that are not suspended, forced to make the first park on the outskirts of hamlet that, as revealed by a map, referred to the Tatar village. The place itself is quite interesting. On the lawn of the forest stand alone among the remains of the foundations of abandoned or unfinished buildings. Conversely, through the valley of the river, right at the foot of the spine Yavornыk "prylipyvsya" nice cozy house, with the owner of which we had to learn a little later. Gorgan Real Gorgan
And now work has begun to boil. All the trifles of life and care go into oblivion. Need a tent and build a fire. Over the campfire decided not to practice witchcraft - very wet wood. Help them out candle. Ten minutes - and dinner is ready.
Oh miracle, the rain stopped for a while! A gap in the heavy clouds vanished, the weak sunlight. Life just comes alive. Singing and tsvirinchat all species simultaneously. In his run for fun ants. Because of the mountain slowly Brady, pulling grass, small Carpathian cow with huge bells. But residents and the mountains - "Gazda" with his wife pidtyahuyutsya to "spark" of our burner. With their small, extremely funny and curious dog. Favorite of hosts (the stories), one only eats milk and cookies. Indeed, from our animal twisting stew nose.
In conversations about life, price and political activities of our elite over a cup of fine tea spends the evening. Aroma and taste of the Carpathian tea, sealed in clean (non-chlorinated) water from the river, just impossible to describe.
I think the local people of the city seems incomprehensible creature, speaking a strange language and something gets in the mountains. We're talking "people from another planet that had never known urban civilization.
Before going to bed take volitional decision to storm the summit (g hamster) as before.
The morning was fairly gloomy and rainy. Nail assembled, start up and get into the kingdom of beech forest. Around the huge trees, their crowns Closing sky. You go and rustle underfoot last year's leaves. It seems to be the end of May, and it seems that it has come late autumn.
Morning in hamsters
With each step becomes hotter. Sweat runs down my spine, breath uchaschayetsya as from running. As always, so close and easy route, elected on a tourist map (scale 1:50000), is almost vertical wall of stones. Dereshsya, the last effort clinging to anything that falls into the hands of one idea "just would not roll down."
It takes time, another, third ... Time in the mountains "flowing" not giving in our logic. Five to ten miles going for ages. It seems that the march-throw with backpacks will not end ever.
And finally, forest retreats and changes alpine bow (meadows). Is changing the landscape, but our mood. From observing the landscape is breathtaking. We are top of the ridge between two small Gorgan - hamsters and bruises. Far as the picture inn with cows and horses that graze next to it. Around where not throw your opinion, tops and ridges. Most of them quite exotic snow. Clouds over Gorgan Heavy Fog opovyv Valley
Last ascent among rocks covered with mosses and dwarf conifer species - and we coveted mountain top hamsters. Emotions overflow ... With a beautiful view of the mountains: Goverlu with Petros on Svydovets Blyznytsia with numerous ridges and Gorgan.
A few minutes just looking at the mountains and nothing to think not. In general, the mountains (as in fire or water) you can watch forever. Vidklyuchayeshsya from all worldly problems, just lyubuyeshsya beauty and listen to the wind that here, on top not only adds sounds, but we simply trying to blow off. Obviously, it protects from prying eyes statue of the Mother of God, the stories, brought here by helicopter. Once she even had the lights at night and was visible from afar.
A stone image of the Virgin Mary, set on the tops of the Carpathian, I met the first time. Usually "happened" crosses and topographical marks.
Get down with the hamster and how to tell the military, the east mountain storm bruises. As in the song, when the top is "just a few steps," a thunderstorm. We put a tent in the dark spruce forest on the edge of a cliff. Around the felled tree windbreaks. Wind hne them blows the branches and trying to overthrow our temporary shelter. Hail Showers changes that knocks on the trailer as the machine gun. Begins to walk around the mountain thunderstorm. Flash light and immediately rolling thunder. Sound bouncing off nearby mountains, will not halt by the next lightning strike. It seems that the guns will not end. Only after two hours of combat elements storm calms down.
Morning for a while stopped raining. Sitting on huge stones could admire the grand picture. Slowly and hesitantly, amid rising sun, the valley between the ridges "vpovzav" milky white haze. The beauty seen is not even convey images. This need only observe with your own eyes.
From the mountain we went down in zero visibility, "rozrizayuchy" cloud. The last destination of our hike was yaremchansky waterfall Break. He impressed us with his strength and very saddened amount of garbage in the water and on the approaches to it. Is "plastic bottle" has already reached the shores of rivers and bars? People shamenitsya! Save the unique Carpathian nature for future generations!